Destination

Machu Picchu, most of the work is underground.

What gets photographed are walls and terraces. What holds the place up is a system of foundations, drainage layers and channels almost nobody sees: the engineers who studied it estimate that around 60% of the building effort went there.

· 9 min read
The site occupies a narrow ridge, with the Urubamba canyon several hundred metres below: every part of the build had to solve that slope first.
The site occupies a narrow ridge, with the Urubamba canyon several hundred metres below: every part of the build had to solve that slope first.

01 The problem was not building, it was holding

The site sits at about 2,430 metres, on a narrow ridge between two peaks, with slopes falling hundreds of metres to the Urubamba river. That ground receives close to two metres of rain a year. Anything built there without preparation would have slid down the slope within a decade.

Engineering surveys carried out on site since the 1990s change the usual reading. Measuring foundations, fill and water outlets, their authors estimated that around 60% of the building effort went into what cannot be seen: levelling, filling, draining and anchoring. The visible surface is the easy half of the job.

Stepped terraces at the edge of the slope, with the Urubamba river far below in the canyon.
From the edge of the terraces, the river lies hundreds of metres below. That drop explains why drainage was the first problem.Håkan Svensson (Xauxa) / CC BY 2.5  · CC BY 2.5

02 The terraces are not only fields

The usual image of the terraces is agricultural: green steps where crops grew. That is half true. Each terrace is also a retaining wall and a filter. Under the topsoil there is sand, gravel and granite chippings that let water move downward instead of collecting against the stone.

That detail changes what you are looking at. A terrace is not a field resting on a wall: it is a wall that also happens to be farmable. That is why the site still stands after five centuries of heavy rain, while modern construction in the same valley needs constant repair.

Stepped stone terraces covered in grass, with reconstructed thatched-roof buildings at the top.
Each step is a retaining wall with drainage layers behind it. Farming was the visible function, not the only one.F Delventhal / CC BY 2.0  · CC BY 2.0

03 The quarry was inside the site

There is a point on the route where the ground turns into a chaos of split blocks. It is not a collapsed ruin: it is the quarry. The granite came out of the ridge itself, often using outcrops that were already there, and much of the leftover material ended up underground as draining fill for terraces and plazas.

Understanding that reorders the walk. Quarry, walls and terraces are not three separate attractions but three moments of the same process: extract, fit, hold. Nothing was brought from far away because nothing needed to be.

Large split granite blocks scattered over the grass, in the quarry area of the site.
The quarry area: the material for the whole site came out of the very ridge it stands on.Draceane / CC BY-SA 4.0  · CC BY-SA 4.0

04 The afterimage

The afterimage of Machu Picchu is not the postcard of the ridge with the peak behind it. It is a more awkward and more interesting idea: that the admirable part of the place is the part deliberately buried so the rest would last.

Close-up of a stone wall with blocks fitted without mortar and lichen on the surface.
The walls fit without mortar. What keeps them from shifting lies underneath, in the prepared ground.Geoff Gallice / CC BY 2.0  · CC BY 2.0

Walk in with that idea and the visit changes tone. You stop hunting for the perfect viewpoint and start reading the ground: where the water goes, where an outlet opens in a wall, why a plaza sits exactly where it does. The place becomes less miraculous and considerably more impressive.

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Last updated · reviewed by the FlowTravel desk
MR

María Reyes

Destinations editor · Flowtravel

María Reyes interprets the character of places through their rhythms, spaces and everyday ways of life.

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