Destination

In Split-Dalmatia there is a type of coastline named after this place

Coastal geography textbooks call shorelines with elongated islands parallel to the coast 'Dalmatian type'. The name comes from here, and the cause is that the rock folds run in the same direction as the sea.

· 11 min read
Satellite image of three Dalmatian islands: long narrow bars, all aligned the same way and separated from the mainland by straight channels.
Satellite image of three Dalmatian islands: long narrow bars, all aligned the same way and separated from the mainland by straight channels.EOX IT Services·CC BY-SA 4.0

Look at a map of the Croatian coast and you will see something that happens almost nowhere else: the islands are long, narrow and aligned, all with the same orientation and all parallel to the mainland. They do not look like islands; they look like ribs.

That is not an aesthetic coincidence. It is a category, it has a name, and the name is this place.

01 Dalmatian-type coastline

View from space of a coast with a city on a peninsula, a channel of dark water and an elongated island beyond
Split on its peninsula and, across the channel, the end of an elongated island. The water between them is not a bay: it is a drowned valley.NASA / Wikimedia Commons / Dominio público  · Dominio público

Coastal geography distinguishes between concordant and discordant coasts according to how the rock beds are oriented relative to the sea. On a concordant coast, beds of differing hardness are folded into ridges running parallel to the shoreline.

That type of coast has two recognised variants. One is the haff type, that of the southern Baltic lagoons, closed off by sand spits parallel to a low shoreline.

The other is called the Dalmatian type, and the definition is literal: elongated offshore islands and coastal inlets parallel to the shoreline. The Adriatic itself is a concordant landform, a body of water between parallel ranges.

02 The folds run in the right direction

The origin lies in the orogeny that raised the Dinaric Alps, the range running along the whole eastern Adriatic coast. Compression folded the rock into a series of anticlines and synclines, that is, alternating ridges and troughs.

The key is orientation: those folds were left aligned from northwest to southeast, which is exactly the direction of the coast. If they had formed perpendicular to the sea, the result would be a ria coast, with deep perpendicular inlets. That is not what happened.

And the rock is limestone, which adds the second half of the mechanism: karst. Water dissolves limestone, hollows out the ridges, opens dolines and caves and leaves ground with no soil and no surface rivers, which is what you see travelling any of these islands.

03 And then the sea rose

Slope covered in low scrub in the foreground, a wide stretch of calm sea and, beyond, a wall of limestone mountain filling the horizon
From an island, looking at the mainland: the ridge opposite runs in the same direction as the island you are standing on, with the channel between them.Thesoul intruder / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0  · CC BY-SA 4.0

The folded, dissolved landscape existed before the sea took its present form here. What turned it into an archipelago was the rise in sea level after the last glaciation.

The water flooded the troughs and left the ridges out. The synclines became channels; the anticlines, islands. And since both ran parallel, the result inherited that whole geometry unaltered.

That is why this coast type is associated with submerging shorelines. It is not a landscape the sea has sculpted: it is a landscape the sea has merely half covered.

04 Why there are channels and not bays

Aerial view of a village with orange roofs around a narrow, deep inlet, with pine-covered slopes on both sides
An inlet on an island's north coast: a flooded side valley, narrow, sheltered and deep. That is where the village goes.Carsten Steger / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0  · CC BY-SA 4.0

The most visible practical consequence is navigation. Between the islands and the mainland there are long, straight, sheltered channels that work like corridors: you can travel hundreds of kilometres of coast without ever going into open sea.

And the natural harbours are where the side valleys were. An inlet here is not an open arc of beach: it is a flooded secondary valley, narrow, with slopes on both sides and enough depth. That is why the villages tuck inland instead of spreading along the shore.

The other consequence is height. Since the islands are folded ridges, they are not flat: Brač reaches 778 metres at Vidova gora, the highest point of any Adriatic island. An island in this archipelago is a mountain with its base under water.

05 The stone all this produces

A coast made of folded limestone has an obvious product, and the region has been exploiting it for two thousand years. The white limestone of Brač has been quarried since Roman times and travelled by sea everywhere.

That material built Diocletian's Palace in Split, along with stone from Seget, near Trogir. That is, the city is made of the island you can see from it, and transport was trivial because all that lies between them is a channel.

It also explains the surface. On a karst island there is no deep soil: there are pockets of red earth between the rock, and from those come the vine and the olive, which tolerate drought and shallow roots. The dry-stone wall on every slope is, literally, the rock that had to be cleared to plant.

06 How to travel it

The first consequence for travel is that the map misleads on distance. Two points in sight of each other can be a good hour apart by ferry, and two points on the same island, separated by its ridge, can be further in time than two different islands.

The second is that aspect rules. The north coasts of each island face the channel and are sheltered; the south coasts face open sea and take the swell. The historic villages are almost all on the sheltered side, and the famous beaches on the other.

And the third is a way of looking. If in every channel you ask which valley you are crossing, the archipelago stops being a handful of separate islands and becomes what it is: a single folded relief, with half of it under water.

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Last updated · reviewed by the FlowTravel desk
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María Reyes

Destinations editor · Flowtravel

María Reyes looks for the physical logic of each place: why it is where it is and what explains its shape.

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