Asmara month by month — at a glance

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Hover each month for the summary. Click to pin it.

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

01 Three and a half degrees

Key moments at a glance

OctThe best of the year

21.7 °C by day, 15.4 mm and 273 hours of sun, with clear air after the rains.

JanThe brightest

291 hours of sun and 3.7 mm, but the mean low drops to 4.3 °C.

MayThe short rains

41.1 mm over 5 days: isolated showers that do not spoil the month.

JulThe big rains

174.9 mm over 13 days and 152 hours of sun: half of January's.

The full series of mean highs reads like this: January 22.3; February 23.8; March 25.1; April 25.1; May 25.0; June 24.9; July 21.6; August 21.5; September 22.9; October 21.7; November 21.5; December 21.5. It is an almost horizontal line. No month is "summer" and none is "winter" in the usual thermal sense.

That makes Asmara a pleasant logistical oddity: the clothes that work in March work in November. The annual mean high is 23.1 degrees and the mean low 8.0. And the sun turns up almost always: 2,922 hours a year, an average of eight a day, reaching 291 in the month of January.

02 Eighteen degrees before dinner

The movement that does exist is vertical, inside the same day. In January the mean high is 22.3 degrees and the mean low 4.3: exactly eighteen degrees of daily range. In December it is 16.7 and in February 18.7. That is the city's real climate, and that is what you pack for.

Three and a half degrees separate the coolest month from the warmest. Eighteen separate midday from dawn on the same January day.

The cause is altitude combined with very dry air and clear skies: by day the sun heats unobstructed at 2,325 metres, and by night the heat escapes just as fast. So at midday you walk in short sleeves and by seven in the evening you need a jumper, and in January perhaps something more.

A symmetrical two-storey building painted pale yellow, with two solid windowless blocks projecting left and right and a recessed central body carrying seven tall dark-framed windows under a straight cornice; on the ground floor a porch on two slim columns covers the entrance, and in front runs a maroon metal railing with two bicycles leaning against it; a grey car is parked side-on in the roadway, a blue telephone box stands on the pavement, and lower houses and trees show at the back left; the sky is blue with large vertically developed white clouds.
Vertically developed cloud over the city in mid-afternoon. It builds almost daily in the rainy season and breaks up as the sun goes down.Sailko / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0·CC BY 3.0

03 The two rains

If temperature is no use for ordering the year, rain is. Asmara receives 518.6 millimetres a year over about 47 days, and it does not spread them: July brings 174.9 millimetres over 13 days and August 155.6 over 12. Those two months hold sixty-four per cent of the year's water.

Before that long season there is another, short and far more bearable: April, May and June leave between 33 and 41 millimetres a month over four or five days. These are isolated showers that do not organise the day. The difference between the two rains is one of scale, not nuance: May brings 41 millimetres and July 175.

The exit is one of the cleanest breaks you will see in a climate table. From August's 155.6 millimetres to September's 15.6: a tenth as much, from one month to the next. And the cloud leaves with the rain: sunshine climbs from 158 hours in August to 213 in September and 273 in October.

A general view of the city from a rooftop, the horizon set high in the frame: in the foreground, flat and sheet-metal roofs of low houses in cream, pink and pale green, with tanks and aerials; towards the centre, three- and four-storey blocks and a few taller modern ones among trees, with purple patches of jacaranda in flower; at the back, the city dissolves into a blue-grey haze that erases the outline of low hills, and the cloudless sky appears a very pale, milky blue.
The city under the dry haze at the end of the rainless season. In October, after the water, the horizon comes back sharp.JanNeysan / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0·CC BY-SA 4.0

04 Which month to pick

October is the best month, and not by much. It has a high of 21.7, a low of 8.1, 15.4 millimetres over two days and 273 hours of sun, and it arrives just after the big rains, when the air is clean and the countryside around is still green. September works almost as well and November follows closely.

December, January and February have the clearest skies — 282, 291 and 260 hours of sunshine — and are the driest months of the calendar, at 3.4, 3.7 and 2.0 millimetres. In exchange they bring the year's cold nights: mean lows of 4.8, 4.3 and 5.1 degrees. If you do not mind wrapping up after dark, they are excellent.

A three-storey corner building with its corner resolved as a curve: the balconies are semicircular, the first-floor one with a metal railing and the upper one with a solid parapet painted pink, while the ground floor is shuttered with metal blinds and grilles; to the right runs a longer cream block with regular windows and green awnings over the shops; in front, two tall date palms throw their sharp-edged shadows across the façade, cars are parked along the kerb and a yellow taxi drives past, and several people walk along the pavement, small and distant, under a cloudless blue sky.
Hard shadows and clean sky on the main avenue: the typical light of the dry half of the year, at an average of eight hours of sun a day.Sailko / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0·CC BY 3.0

March closes the good block with the year's highest mean high, 25.1 degrees, and only 14.6 millimetres. From April to June you can travel without difficulty if you accept the odd afternoon shower. And July and August are the only two months worth dodging: not for cold or heat, but because it rains thirteen days out of thirty and the sunshine halves.

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Ana Larrea

When To Go editor · Flowtravel

Ana reads calendars and climate records before she reads guidebooks.