Bissau month by month — at a glance

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Hover each month for the summary. Click to pin it.

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

01 Three months at zero

Key moments at a glance

DecThe best of the year

0.2 mm, 248 hours of sun and nights at 19.4 °C. No rain and no swelter.

JanThe coolest

A mean low of 18.3 °C, the calendar's lowest, with 0.1 mm.

MarZero rain, 36 degrees

279 hours of sun and not a drop, but the year's highest mean high.

AugTwenty-four days

467.7 mm and 24.1 rain days: the wettest month of the calendar.

The full series shows the step. December 0.2 millimetres; January 0.1; February 0.0; March 0.0; April 0.0; May 10.6. And from there: June 139.9; July 371.0; August 467.7; September 364.4; October 166.7; November 10.9. The year totals around 1,532 millimetres over close to a hundred rain days.

Sunshine, by contrast, does not collapse as much as you might expect. The year totals about 2,707 hours and the minimum, in August, is 155: considerably more than other capitals on this coast record at the height of the season. It rains hard here, but it also clears.

02 Heat without rain

What really sets Bissau's dry season apart from other capitals in the region is the thermometer. In February, March and April the mean high is 35.2, 36.0 and 35.3 degrees: they are the three hottest months of the year, and they coincide exactly with the three that record no rain.

A mean high of thirty-six degrees and zero millimetres of rain in the same month. The dry air makes it bearable, but the number is what it is.

The compensation is at night. In the dry half of the year the mean low drops to 18.3 degrees in January, 19.0 in February and 19.4 in December, while in August it stays at 23.3 with maximum humidity. The gap between day and night reaches fifteen or sixteen degrees in March, and seven in August.

The city seen above the treetops on an overcast day: the lower two thirds of the frame are an unbroken mass of intensely green foliage, with mangoes, palms and climbers hiding the ground completely; between the crowns and towards the back appear the orange-tiled and sheet-metal roofs of a district of low houses, the odd façade painted green and yellow, a raised water tank and an aerial; above it all, a band of uniform white sky, without sun, with a thread of smoke rising between the houses.
The city under the white sky of the wet season, the vegetation at its peak. This green only exists between June and October.Bnhamadjo / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0·CC BY-SA 3.0

03 And then, four hundred and sixty-seven

The other extreme arrives fast. From May's 10.6 millimetres you go to 139.9 in June, and from there to 371.0 in July and 467.7 in August. Between June and October ninety-nine per cent of the year's water falls, and in August it rains on 24.1 days out of 31.

On the ground that means two things. First: the earth tracks of the interior and the islands become very difficult, and journeys that take two hours in January may stop being possible at all. Second: boat trips across the estuary and out to the archipelago depend on the state of the sea and get complicated.

A colour satellite image of the estuary and the archipelago: in the right half, the mainland appears as an intense green mass threaded by a dense network of black mangrove creeks branching like veins; through the centre, a very broad river enters from the right edge and opens seawards in bands of pale sediment-laden water; in the left and lower half, some twenty green islands with irregular outlines float on deep blue, separated by channels and ringed by very pale grey sandbanks visible through the water.
Sediment-laden water leaving the estuary. That pale plume is the season's rain, already out at sea.Pierre Markuse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0·CC BY 2.0

04 Which month to pick

December and January are the two best months, and for one specific reason: they combine zero rain with the coolest nights of the year, mean lows of 19.4 and 18.3 degrees, and 248 hours of sunshine each. It is the only part of the calendar where you do not have to choose between staying dry and being comfortable.

February, March and April still bring no rain, but the heat climbs: mean highs of 35.2, 36.0 and 35.3 degrees. They are perfectly viable months if you accept organising the day around the morning and the late afternoon. November is the other door, at 10.9 millimetres and with the countryside still green from the season.

A very wide panorama of a low island seen from the water: in the foreground, the lower half of the frame is a greyish-green sea, smooth and almost without swell; across the centre stretches the island's shore, with a narrow band of pale sand and some blocks of dark rock at the water's edge; above it grows a continuous, very dense mass of palms and tropical trees with rounded crowns, all the same dark green, without a single visible building; the sky above is a uniform white band, without defined cloud.
A smooth, swell-free sea between two islands. In the dry season the estuary and the archipelago's channels are crossed on water like this.Mooonswimmer / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0·CC BY-SA 4.0

And June to September is worth thinking hard about. It is not just that between 140 and 468 millimetres fall each month: it is that it rains on between twelve and twenty-four days out of thirty, and everything that makes this country interesting — the islands, the estuary, the inland tracks — depends on being able to move.

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Ana Larrea

When To Go editor · Flowtravel

Ana reads calendars and climate records before she reads guidebooks.