Libreville month by month — at a glance

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01 Dry does not mean sunny

Key moments at a glance

JulDry and grey

5 mm and one rain day, but only 93 hours of sun: the darkest month.

JunThe break

From 246 mm in May to 15 in June. The water vanishes in four weeks.

AprThe brightest

162 hours of sun, the year's peak, but with 344 mm over 18.8 days.

NovFour hundred and sixty

464 mm over 23.1 rain days: the wettest month of the calendar.

The reason lies in the latitude and in the sea. Libreville sits practically on the equator, less than half a degree north, facing a cold current that in the southern winter chills the air from below and covers it with a low layer of stratus. That layer prevents rain, because it stops the air rising, and at the same time blocks the sun continuously.

The annual totals help place the scale: 2,840.4 millimetres of rain over about 162 days, and only 1,643.5 hours of sunshine. For comparison: more than double the water of many tropical capitals and considerably less sun than most. Libreville is a humid city and, for much of the year, a grey one.

02 Five millimetres in July

The southern winter drought is almost absolute. June leaves 15 millimetres over 1.8 rain days; July, 5 millimetres over a single day; August, 18 over 2.5. That is, three consecutive months that between them do not reach 40 millimetres. In November, one month alone brings 464.

July, the month when it barely rains, is also the least sunny month of the year. Here dry and bright do not go together: they run in opposite directions.

It is also the coolest part of the year, within limits. The mean high drops to 27.8 degrees in July and the low to 21.7, against 31.1 and 23.9 in March. It is not a big difference — three degrees — but with humidity this high and no direct sun, it changes the feel a good deal.

A wide beach of pale compact sand seen along the shoreline: in the foreground, two large grey weathered driftwood logs half buried in the sand and a strip of grass and creeping green plants; on the right, a group of coconut palms leaning towards the sea, their trunks whitewashed at the base and their fronds combed by the wind; the water on the left is a dull brownish grey breaking in low foam; small distant figures walk along the sand; the sky fills more than half the frame and is covered by a dense layer of grey cloud, with a single band of pale light along the horizon.
The beach under the dry season's cloud ceiling. This is the typical landscape from June to September: dry sand, grey sea and not a ray of sun.ArnoBOUJIKA / Wikimedia Commons / CC0·CC0

03 The other extreme: November

At the opposite end of the calendar sits the October-to-December block. October brings 419 millimetres over 22.4 days; November, 464 over 23.1; December, 298 over 18. Three months in which it rains three days in four and the total water exceeds 1,180 millimetres: more than falls in a whole year in many European cities.

With one important difference from other tropics: here, in the wet season, there is sun. April reaches 162 hours and March 158, the two peaks of the year, because the rain arrives as short intense downpours that clear afterwards. You get soaked, but you also see the sky.

A close view of the crown of a young coconut palm beside a road: from the centre of the thick trunk, its frond bases wrapping it in fibrous green and brown layers, hangs a cluster of eight or ten unripe green coconuts held on dark woody stalks; around them the fronds open out, some green and some dry and drooping; behind and to the right, lower down, the verge of an avenue with a red car parked, sand and some low vegetation; the light is flat and the sky is white.
Coconut palms on the coast road. With 2,840 millimetres of rain a year, vegetation grows right into the city.ArnoBOUJIKA / Wikimedia Commons / CC0·CC0

04 Which month to pick

If what you want is to move around — coast, tracks, parks, boats — the June-to-August block is the good one, and not for the sun but for the ground. At 5 to 18 millimetres a month, tracks are firm, rivers low and outings predictable. August also adds the whale season offshore.

But you have to go knowing what you are buying: overcast skies almost every day, a grey sea and photography without contrast. Anyone travelling for postcard beaches and tropical light will be disappointed by the supposedly good season, and would do better in May, with 155 hours of sun and the rain already easing.

March to May is the most balanced compromise: plenty of water, yes, but in downpours, with the year's highest temperatures — a mean high of 31.1 degrees — and the brightest light of the calendar. And October to December is when to think twice, unless you are coming for something that only happens then.

The seafront seen from the air: the left half of the frame is a smooth, greyish-brown sea merging with the sky in a white haze with no defined horizon; a strip of pale sand and dark rock separates the water from a broad dual carriageway curving along the coast; on the right, the city spreads in tight blocks of four- to ten-storey buildings in white, ochre, green and blue, with scattered office towers, fading into haze at the back.
Sea and sky merged into the same white haze, with no horizon. At 1,644 hours of sunshine a year, this is the city's usual light.Shirmy25 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0·CC BY-SA 4.0

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Ana Larrea

When To Go editor · Flowtravel

Ana reads calendars and climate records before she reads guidebooks.