Port Louis month by month — at a glance

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Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

01 Seven hundred and eleven against four thousand

Key moments at a glance

OctThe best month

15 mm over 3 days, 279 hours of sun and 28.8 °C highs.

SepThree rain days

17 mm in the whole month, with 240 hours of sun and nights at 19.4 °C.

FebOne hundred and sixty

160 mm over 10 days and 82 % humidity. The season's peak.

JulThe coolest

26.7 °C by day and 19.3 by night, with only 18 mm of rain.

The figure matters for a practical reason: in Mauritius, the island's general forecast does not describe what happens in the capital. The west coast, where Port Louis is, is the driest, with values around 900 millimetres; the east is around 1,500 and the central plateau multiplies that figure.

The consequence is that you can be crossing the island in a downpour and arrive in the city with the sky open. The scale of the territory helps: this is an island where distances are measured in tens of kilometres, not hundreds, and even so the rainfall gradient is one of the sharpest there is.

02 Why it rains on the other side

The air arrives loaded from the southeast, climbs the plateau, unloads, and comes down dry to the northwest. The capital is on the dry side.

The mechanism is textbook, which is why it works so regularly. The southeast trades reach the island loaded with moisture after crossing the Indian Ocean. Meeting the relief of the south and east, the air has to rise, expands, cools and releases its water. That is orographic precipitation.

By the time that air descends the northwestern flank it has already left most of its moisture up above. Port Louis is exactly there, at the foot of the Moka range, in the rain-shadow sector. The same wall of mountains that shelters its harbour from the wind also takes away its rain.

A view of the city from open ground on a rise, with intense blue sky filling the upper half of the frame and a few white clouds lined up above the summits: at the back, a continuous mountain range stretches from side to side with green slopes and rocky, sharply jagged crests, two pointed peaks standing out above the rest; at the foot of the range, the white housing of the city covers the valley and climbs the first rises; in the middle ground there are industrial sheds, lamp standards and parked cars; in the foreground, an expanse of dry yellowish grass fenced by a brown-painted wooden rail.
The burnt-off grass in the foreground beside the green slopes behind. The contrast happens within a few kilometres.Z thomas / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0·CC BY-SA 4.0

03 December to April: cyclones

Although it rains little in annual terms, the water that does fall is highly concentrated, and coincides with the part of the year when there is cyclone risk. The wet season runs from December to April: 85, 131, 160, 83 and 87 millimetres. Between those five months they account for 546 of the year's 711.

It is also the hotter, muggier half. In January, February and March the mean high sits at 31.5, 31.4 and 31.5 degrees, lows do not drop below 23.8 and relative humidity stays above 81 %. It is not extreme heat, but the humidity makes it hard going.

A very wide panorama of a harbour basin taken at water level from a quay: the sheet of water, grey and slightly choppy, fills the lower half of the frame; on the left, port installations line up with gantry cranes, a row of eight white cylindrical silos and a berthed cargo ship; at the centre and right, industrial sheds and low buildings give way to a group of modern glass towers; behind, the silhouettes of the mountains appear; the sky is covered by a dense mass of dark storm cloud filling the whole upper half, with some bright breaks towards the left; in the left foreground, the metal railing of the viewing point is visible.
A storm sky over the basin. Between December and April, 546 of the year's 711 millimetres fall.carrotmadman6 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0·CC BY 2.0

Cyclone risk is worth taking seriously when planning, not because one is likely to catch you, but because a warning can bring the island to a halt for a day or two. It is a factor that appears in no millimetre column and that can upend a short trip entirely.

04 Which month to pick

The good window is long and very clear: May to November. In those seven months rainfall runs from 48 millimetres in May to 15 in October, with only three to six rain days a month, and sunshine stays between 210 and 279 hours. It is also the half of the year outside the cyclone season.

Within that span, October is the calendar's best month: 15 millimetres, 3 rain days, 279 hours of sun and 28.8 degrees by day. September and November follow closely, at 17 and 24 millimetres. If you prefer less heat, July and August stay at 26.7 and 26.8 degrees by day.

A view of the city at dusk from a hillside, the sky still dark blue and the lights already on: on the left, the harbour basin cuts inland forming an arm of water that reflects the orange lights of the quays, with cylindrical silos, cranes and a berthed ship; at the centre the office district groups together, with a dozen lit glass towers; around it and towards the foreground stretches a very dense urban fabric of low buildings, dotted with yellow lights; on the right, a dark elongated patch of grass interrupts the housing; at the back, the coast recedes into gloom under a band of cloud.
A clear night over the city. In July the mean low is 19.3 degrees, the coolest of the year.Peter Kuchar / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0·CC BY-SA 3.0

The months to avoid are January, February and March, for the combination of rain, mugginess and cyclone risk. December is more ambiguous than it looks: 85 millimetres fall but it accumulates 279 hours of sunshine, the same as October. And there is one figure worth keeping in mind in any month: relative humidity does not drop below 74 % all year.

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Ana Larrea

When To Go editor · Flowtravel

Ana reads calendars and climate records before she reads guidebooks.