Praia month by month — at a glance

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Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

01 Twelve and a half days

Key moments at a glance

AprZero rain days

0.0 mm in the 1991–2020 series, with 285 hours of sun and 28.1 °C.

MayThe brightest month

306.9 hours of sun: nearly ten hours a day on average.

Sep75 millimetres

The wettest and most humid month: 76.8%. And the record: 36.2 °C.

NovThe green just made

4.4 mm, 29.8 °C and the vegetation the rains left still standing.

The cause is position. The archipelago sits in the same band of the Atlantic as the Sahara, level with the Sahel, and receives the dry air coming off the continent. The only thing that breaks that regime is the seasonal shift of the tropical rains northwards, which reaches these islands briefly and irregularly between August and October.

March brings 0.1 millimetres. April and June bring 0.0. Three months of the year in which the word "rain" is, statistically, a rounding error.

02 The brown island and the green one

Here is the real decision, and it has nothing to do with getting wet. Santiago changes colour twice a year. From December to July the slopes are bare: brown earth, dry terraces, and green only on the ravine floors, where some water remains. From September to November, after the rains, the same island covers itself in grass and scrub.

A view from a height towards a bay: in the foreground and middle distance, slopes and ridges entirely covered in grass and scrub of an intense green, with a white hamlet of red roofs on a saddle; beyond, a bay of pale sand and blue water with a town spread along the shore; at the back, a green volcanic cone and the open sea; the sky is full of white cumulus.
The north of the island after the rains. These same slopes are entirely brown from February to July.Iwoelbern / Wikimedia Commons / Dominio público·Dominio público

Neither version is the right one. The brown island has its geology on display: you can see the lava layers, the plateau edges, the old terraces. The green island is gentler and more photogenic, but it covers exactly that. It is worth knowing which one you are choosing.

A heavily cultivated valley floor seen from the opposite slope: at the centre, a group of tall palms and coconut trees above a whitewashed two-storey house and several low stone buildings with tiled roofs; around them, banana plants, cane and dense woodland in varied greens, with red-earth terraces on the right; behind, dry slopes of low scrub and a brown range under a blue sky.
The floor of a ravine: water, palms and bananas. Fifty metres higher up, the slope is dry all year.Cayambe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0·CC BY-SA 3.0

03 The thermometer barely takes part

The second feature of this climate is that the sea flattens everything. The mean high runs from 26.7 degrees in January to 31 in October; the mean low from 19.5 in February to 24.4 in September. Four degrees of range above and five below, across twelve months.

The historic extremes say the same: the heat record is 36.2 degrees and the cold record 16.2. Twenty degrees between the two furthest-apart values ever recorded. It is never cold here and never dangerously hot.

What does move, and considerably, is humidity: from 62.6% in March to 76.8% in September. At 30 degrees, those fourteen points are the difference between dry, pleasant warmth and sticky closeness. If your tolerance for humidity is low, that is your figure, not the temperature.

A low, spreading euphorbia shrub on a bank of dark earth: dozens of woody branches ending in rosettes of narrow leaves, some blue-green and many already yellow, with clusters of rounded green fruit at the tips of the stems; the ground around is covered in dry litter and stones.
Euphorbia tuckeyana, endemic to the archipelago, in Serra Malagueta natural park. It is built for 176 millimetres a year.Chielbuseyne / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0·CC BY-SA 4.0

04 November, the answer

If you can only come once, come in November. It is the month that combines the two good things: 4.4 millimetres of rain over two-tenths of a day, and the green the rains left still standing. Humidity has already dropped to 69.8% and the mean high is 29.8 degrees. No other month offers that combination.

After November, March, April and May, the months of guaranteed sun — 285 and 306.9 hours in April and May — and of the year's lowest humidity. The island will be brown, but the air will be clean and the plateaus will look like what they are: cut layers of lava.

And avoid August and September, which between them hold 129.9 of the year's 176.9 millimetres, humidity climbs to 76% and sunshine falls to 201.5 hours: the cloudiest month of the calendar in a place where the sun is the argument. With twelve rain days spread across the year, running into four or five of them in the same week is avoidable bad luck.

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Ana Larrea

When To Go editor · Flowtravel

Ana reads calendars and climate records before she reads guidebooks.