01 A defect that people liked

It is one of those stories that reverse the expected order. Normally a feature is designed and then becomes tradition. Here the opposite happened: the feature appeared by accident in the machine, the market decided it liked it, and the manufacturer turned it into a rule. The tradition came after the mistake.

The second detail is how it is placed. The blanket is worn over the shoulders, and the convention is that the stripe should run vertically, top to bottom, and not across. It is associated with the idea of growth. It is a simple and very visible rule: looking at a photograph you can tell at once whether the piece is correctly worn.

02 1876, and the end of the skin

The date that anchors this story is 1876. That year, after a meeting with the English textile manufacturer Donald Fraser, the production of blankets made specifically for this market was agreed. Before that, the usual outer garment was the kaross, a cloak of sewn animal skin.

The shift from skin to wool was not a fashion: by around 1872 a shortage of sheepskins was already pushing in that direction, and the woven blanket proved lighter, warmer for its weight and far easier to replace. The cut and the way of wearing it, by contrast, were inherited directly from the kaross.

A row of five circular buildings with walls of rough undressed stone laid dry in irregular courses, roofed with thick, heavily weathered conical thatch; one has a door painted pale blue and another retains only the lath frame of its roof; in front, a common of short grass scattered with loose stones where three thick-fleeced cream sheep graze with their heads down; at the back, bare mountain rises and one small distant figure beside the houses, under backlighting that bleaches the sky.
Sheep grazing beside stone-and-thatch dwellings in the country's interior. Wool is a local raw material before it is an imported product.Dr. Ondřej Havelka (cestovatel) / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 4.0·CC BY 4.0

From the nineteen-thirties onwards, named ranges appeared, among them the most prized, Seanamarena. Each range has its own repertoire of designs, and the motif that recurs most in the best of them is the stylised maize cob, each kernel picked out: the more cobs a piece carries, the more highly it is valued.

03 Why here and not elsewhere

A thick wool blanket is not a decorative object in a country where the July mean minimum is below zero.

The obvious question is why such a garment took root precisely here and not in neighbouring countries. The answer is altitude. Lesotho is the only independent state in the world lying entirely above 1,000 metres, and its lowest point — the confluence of the Orange and Makhaleng rivers — sits at 1,400. More than eighty per cent of the territory lies above 1,800.

That means there is nowhere in the whole country a low, temperate zone to retreat to in winter. In Maseru, at 1,600 metres and on the territory's lowest edge, the July mean low is −1.0 degrees. Inland, several hundred metres higher, winter snow is a routine phenomenon. A wool garment of this weight is not folklore: it is equipment.

A very wide frame: at the back, a range of flat summits under continuous white snow above brown rock slopes falling away in steps; in front stretches a plain of wholly burnt-off fields, reddish brown and ochre, without a patch of green; in the foreground, the corrugated-iron roof of a low building, held down by a row of large honey-coloured stones laid on top so the wind cannot lift it; the sky, clean cloudless blue, fills the upper third.
Snow on the summits above dry fields. This country's winter explains why the blanket weighs what it weighs.Paramente Phamotse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0·CC BY-SA 3.0

04 What to look at before buying

Maseru is where the supply is concentrated, and it is worth spending time there with three things clear. The first is the stripe: look for the thin band crossing the cloth from side to side. It is the feature that distinguishes a blanket of this tradition from one with a similar print.

The second is the composition. The original pieces were pure wool; current ones range from merino blended with synthetic fibre to full acrylic. There is no correct option — acrylic weighs less and washes better — but the price and the thermal behaviour differ considerably, so it is worth asking first.

The city spread across a valley beneath a long ridge of bare brick-red rock, with vegetation clinging only to the gullies; along the top of the ridge stand a few white buildings and a telecommunications mast, and below it the slope drops away in a bank of reddish earth; the valley is covered with low houses roofed in red, green and grey among dense trees, crossed by a road, under an intense cloudless blue sky.
Maseru in its valley. It is the point where the sale of these pieces concentrates in the whole country.Lschefa / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0·CC BY-SA 4.0

And the third is the design. If you are going to take away a single piece, look at the repertoire calmly: the cobs, the curved forms, the bands of dots and the colour combinations are not interchangeable between ranges. Once you know about the stripe, comparing two blankets stops being a matter of taste and becomes a reading.

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Lucía Montes

Worth Knowing editor · Flowtravel

Lucía stops at what a place takes for granted and nobody explains.